Malaysia is known worldwide as the ‘cradle’ of what may be the world’s most detested – even feared – fruit. It smells like something that died. But lovers savour it like a fine wine. And Malaysia wants to ‘rebrand’ the Durian to promote sales…
Facility founder Edison Ang strolls through the Durian Environment exhibit
at the Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre (KLDEX). Left and
above him, a live Durian tree with ripening fruit…
The Durian is undoubtedly the most divisive food ever to come out of Asia. It’s a challenge just to look at, with its coat of spiky protrusions covering a thick, woody, dusty yellow carapace, which can vary from cantaloupe- to football-size.
Prepare yourself!
My first experience with the durian was more like a culinary survival challenge than a journey of discovery.
I strongly recommend you open your Durian(s) outside, if the weather permits. And wear gloves along with a bib apron to ensure none of the raw stuff gets on your clothes or skin. That’s because, like skunk musk, the stuff persists through many attempts to wash it off.
And the odour… It’s been described as resembling something that died. I just can’t think of any more-accurate way to characterize the durian. It boasts all the charms of rotting roadkill, and will evoke involuntary gagging and even retching in some less-robust folks. Nose plugs and surgical masks don’t work against it.
The ultimate branding challenge?
No contest. The Durian must stand – now, and probably forever – as the toughest branding challenge any marketing wiz could possibly face.
But that’s what the Malaysian government is trying to do, to popularize the Durian in the abroad, and leverage its position as the world’s ‘richest source’ of the fruit.
A shrine to the Durian?
It’s true, the Malays tell us: Some folks love the durian as much as others hate it. It’s a true polemic divide.
“Devotees savor durians like wine,” an Associated Press dispatch claims. “For Malaysian ones, the taste of their rich and creamy flesh varies widely across types. Some are prized for their sweet custard and fruity notes, others for a hint of bitterness, an alcohol tinge or even a peanut butter flavor.”
“At the Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre, near the landmark Petronas Twin Towers, visitors venture into a replica durian orchard to discover the fruit’s culture and history. In another room, a theater show draws laughter. Downstairs, visitors enjoy platters and egg tarts crafted from it.”
Centre founder Edison Ang, says the centre targets both local customers and tourists, especially those from China, the world’s biggest durian importer. He says, ” Chinese palates have long been influenced by […] Durian culture.”
“What we actually hope for now is not to get people who don’t eat durian to start eating durian,” Ang told AP. “Instead, we hope consumers who are already eating durian from other countries will switch to Malaysian durian.”
My take
That being said… I am relieved to hear that Ang and his followers are not counting on masses of European and North American diners embracing the Durian. At least not any time soon.
Durian is clearly an acquired taste – one which even some who work to acquire it never quite do. On the other hand, there are literally millions of folks across Asia who claim the rest of us don’t know what we’re missing!
~ Maggie J.