We surveyed the Potato Salad scene a couple of days ago. Now, it’s time for a look at the other supreme summer Salad: Coleslaw. We’ll start with a little history and segue into the never-ending debate over which kind of Dressing is best: Creamy Mayo style, or Oil-based Vinaigrette…
A classic Rainbow/Confetti Slaw, with Vinaigrette Dressing. Truth is, you can put anything
you want in a Coleslaw: I’ve seen them with slivers of varicoloured Sweet Peppers, fresh
or pickled Hot Peppers, Snow Peas slivered on the bias, Asian style, matchsticked
Bamboo Shoots or Lychees, and even diced Mandarin Orange sections…
I guessed, a long time ago when I first wondered about it, that Coleslaw was invented in Germany, where Cabbage, in all its forms, is a traditional favourite. I was wrong, but close. The dish hails from The Netherlands, first appearing in the 18th Century, then-named ‘Koolsla’. It didn’t take much to Anglicize that to ‘Coleslaw’, and a western culinary tradition was born.
The original Coleslaw was just finely shredded Cabbage with a Viangrette-style dressing, which improved the keeping properties of the dish by mildly pickling it. Vinaigrette-style Dressing remains, today, one of traditional Dressing styles associated with Slaw.
The flavours, and the Dressings…
Whether you prefer the Vinaigrette or the more-common Mayo-based Dressing, the flavours you’re working with will probably very similar.
Cabbage is one of those foods that naturally lends itself to some flavour companions while totally clashing with many others. Among the flavour friendlies are Apples, Nuts. Carrots, Onions, Caraway and Fennel. Most folks (me included) also add Celery Seeds to their Cole Slaw Dressings for an added earthy note that especially piques the basic flavour of Cabbage.
Cabbage tips…
Whatever colour or texture of Cabbage you use (and all known types of Cabbage work well in Slaw), you’ll want to shred it as thinly as possible. The flavours of the Dressing will get a chance to permeate the Cabbage that way, if you follow the advice of professional cooks (me included) and let the finished Salad sit, covered, in the fridge for at least an hour before serving.
I like to use Savoy Cabbage for my plain green Slaws, because it has all those nice rills and ridges and ruffles. It looks special, and the little grooves help hold the Dressing on the Veggies.
If you prefer Purple Cabbage, you’ll find that the Creamy Mayo Dressing will absorb the colour, making the whole dish a uniform shade of purple-blue. Therefore, I only use Purple Cabbage by itself in Slaws, or with Green Cabbage, Shredded Carrot and Vinaigrette Dressing in my Rainbow or ‘Confetti’ Slaw.
Dressing additions…
I always use my own secret blend of additions and spices for my Slaw Dressing, whether it’s clear or creamy: Salt and Pepper (a liberal amount, to your taste), a level teaspoon of Celery Seeds (whole), half a teaspoon of Fennel Seed (crushed, in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle) and a quarter-teaspoon of Dried Mustard. I also add just a sprinkle of Sugar to take the edge off the Mustard. I’ve even used a teaspoon of Maple Syrup instead of Sugar to give my slaw a distinctive flavour.
I’ve occasionally added chopped Pecans, Hazel Nuts or Walnuts to my Cole Slaw, but some folks don’t like Nuts and, if you’re adding Walnuts, you’re half way to a Waldorf Salad, which is something different, again.
If you add chopped Apples to your Slaw, and you use Creamy Mayo Dressing, you might as well tell folks it’s as ‘Waldorf’ Slaw. I use shredded Carrot more often than I do Apples in my Slaw. It Gives the dish a nice accent colour and adds another dimension of earthly flavour.
Onions are another consideration, altogether. I don’t use them in Slaws, because they tend to hijack the flavour profile. And, after all, the Cabbage is supposed to be the star! But if you like Onions, I recommend you use Green (Spring, Scallion) type Onions and use both the White and Green parts. They'[re less ‘insistent’ than regular Spanish or even Sweet (Vidalia/Bermuda) Onions.
What you do…
Shred the Cabbage and prep the other additions before you attack the Dressing. Toss them together lightly to distribute the ingredients evenly.
Mix up your Dressing just before you need it, to keep the flavours fresh and distinctive. Put together all the Spices and Seasonings in the bottom of a large mixing bowl before measuring in Extra Virgin Olive Oil or Mayo, as your taste dictates and gently folding-in the liquid, to coat all ingredients evenly. Then, cover and let the flavours mature in the fridge, as we mentioned earlier.
Taste for Salt and Pepper before serving.
One last recommendation…
Whatever you put in your Coleslaw, make lots! Folks almost always come back for seconds or even thirds!
~ Maggie J.