“How dare you?” I hear you huffing. How dare I suggest you change even one detail of your personal, long-cultivated burger-dressing ritual? Give me credit for good intentions, at least… I want to share one foodie’s suggestion for updating your patty slathers…
What do you customarily put on your hamburger? We all have our rituals, refined and entrenched over the years, which reassure us that the burger we’re enjoying now is the best there is. We chose our condiments and toppings with almost worshipful intent. And they must be applied to the patty in the correct order, or the experience just isn’t be the same.
Upgrade, update – upstalgize!
I’ve recently come across a post by a seasoned food pro who has some spe-cific opinions about conventional con-diments and a newer burger libation she prefers.
What’s the first thing you think of when you hear the word ‘aioli? It has to be garlic. If you’re not a garlic fan, you’ve already stopped reading this post. But the rest of you who are still with me will benefit greatly from the wisdom of Amber Sutherland-Namako.
Bullet-proof reasoning
Amber takes pains to explain her rationale for replacing virtually all the traditional condiments on your burger with her carefully curated Garlic Aioli. And I have to admit, her reasoning is just as simple as it is bullet-proof.
“Even a mild zag from the expected can further enliven your burger repertoire, and aioli is just the silken, garlicky blend to make your meat even more memorable,” she suggests.
For the uninitiated – and those who have enjoyed aioli without having actually made it themselves, Amber offers this instructive preamble…
“Aioli isn’t too far afield from the mayonnaise you’re already familiar with (that’s part of what makes it so great on a burger), but the difference between mayo and aioli is not merely the addition of […] aromatic garlic, but also the absence of egg.”
Critical differences…
But there are critical differences… “Because aioli’s two basic ingredients (garlic and extra virgin olive oil) can be a bit of a challenge to emulsify into its intended creamy constitution, some folks add egg as a kind of cheat code. That’s fine, provided you can evade the aioli inspectors, but just know the result is technically flavored mayo rather than aioli proper. It’s not impossible to create your own [real-deal aioli] with a little patience and aggression.”
The fundamental challenge is like trying to keep the additions suspended in the oil in a vinaigrette, without adding a dab of mustard…
What you do…
I can’t express the details of the method nearly as artfully or lovingly as Amber does: “Aioli requires […] hands-on finesse. You also need a mortar and pestle, arm strength endurance, and maybe a little pent-up frustration to grind out as you mash a few garlic cloves into a paste. A rough chop before you get to work can make them break down a little faster.”
I say a fine chop or a quick buzz in a blender or food processor can accelerate the process even fur-ther. But be sure to conserve all the juices the smashed-up garlic will exude. They’re important for the process.
“Once those cloves are somewhat smooth, introduce your extra virgin olive oil about 1 teaspoon at a time. The mix starts to become creamy between the pressure of your tools,” Amber explains. “Some recipes call for a pinch of salt, which acts as an abrasive to further help the garlic turn to paste, and a little lemon juice, which brightens up the pungent allium. The whole process should only take about 15 minutes, and it creates a bold condiment that’s even more satisfying every time you can tell a guest, ‘that’s not mayo. It’s aioli’.”
And there’s no rule that says you can’t update and update your aioli with certain well-considered additions.
My take
I’ve used a mortar and pestle many times to make pesto. As with Aioli, it’s the traditional way to prepare the condiment. And it does make a real difference in the final product.
All that being said… I’m not saying you should banish ketchup, mustard, mayo and relish from your burger-dressing station. Let the unenlightened do their habitual thing. But have some real aioli on hand for the adventurous!
~ Maggie J.