We’ve been informed – by several online reviewers – of the remarkable Japanese Egg Salad Sandwich that everybody there goes to 7-Eleven for. Now, one Asian food insider reveals the secrets of the REAL Egg Salad of the Land of the Rising Sun…
It’s called the Tamago Sando. The ‘sando’ part simply means ‘sandwich’ in Japanese. It’s in the ‘Tamago’ part where the mystery and magic reside…
Unique in the annals of Eggdom
There are a few seemingly small factors that set the Tamago Sando apart from American and European Egg Salad. But they make a huge difference in flavour, texture and appearance.
New York City celebrity chef Frank Tiu – an Asian food ‘insider’ – shares his take on the TS, and some vital context.
Fundamental differences
It’s mainly about the eggs – as it should be…
“First, the eggs are cooked to the perfect jammy consistency so the center is creamy, soft, and melty, just like ramen eggs,” Tiu explains. “This jam-like consistency is the key to making the egg salad light and creamy.”
“A little Kewpie mayo, a mayonnaise made with egg yolks for a creamier texture, makes this egg salad even dreamier. I buy mine at Walmart, but you can swap it for your favorite mayo brand in a pinch.”
And then, there’s the unexpected touch. Or should I say, ‘wham’? A halved, whole boiled egg in the middle!
But there’s more…
The bread, Tiu insists should be from a perfect, square Pullman loaf. But all the better if you can get the traditional bread Tamago Sando is made with.
“If you can, get Shokupan or Japanese Milk bread, a favorite that can be found at many Asian bakeries,” Tiu hints. “It is commonly baked in a Pullman loaf pan, ensuring each side is perfectly square and nicely browned. The interior is white and soft, like a brand-new pillow. If you have trouble finding shokupan, you can substitute it with soft white bread.”
Simple as that.
Tiu’s recipe calls for only 4 main ingredients: bread, eggs, mayo and milk. Incidentals comprise only salt – and a ‘dash’ of sugar. The sugar is asses, along with the salt and mayo, to the egg salad mixture. And you’ll notice a definite difference in the overall heavenly flavour balance of you leave it out. Don’t ask why. Just do it.
Cooking the eggs
Now do you achieve ‘jammy’, ramen-style eggs?
“You want the yolk mostly translucent, but not super runny,” Tiu observes. “If you’re boiling your eggs, about 6 minutes should do the trick. Cool in an ice water bath before peeling. Set aside two eggs (one egg per sandwich) for slicing later. ”
Some assembly required
“To make the Tamago Sando, place a slice of bread on a flat surface. Slice one of the reserved whole eggs in half and place the halves in the center of the bread. Spread half of the egg salad mixture on top of and around the egg halves until it is even and smooth. Place another slice of bread on top.” And, the final authentic touch: “Slice the sandwich down the middle of the egg halves, revealing a beautiful cross-section.”
My take
I adore the whole idea of the Tamago Sando.
I have also developed a deep affection for the dash of sugar Tiu recommends in the mayo. It’s a great addition to your own homemade mayo or any tart store-bought mayo (i.e.- REAL mayonnaise, made with real eggs – not ‘Lite’ or ‘egg-free’).
And I love the notion of pairing creamy egg salad with sliced boiled eggs in the same sando. It makes an Egg Salad Sandwich a real meal!
But I would venture to add a small handful of finely shredded Romaine Heart lettuce on top. It adds a crunch most egg salads are sorely in need of. And I suppose you could add the traditional sprinkle of Sweet Paprika that cooks of my Mom’s and Grandmother’s generations always used. But I fear that would ruin the delicate, harmonious flavour of this very special – dare I say, exotic? – egg salad…
~ Maggie J.