1.7 min. read
Italian cuisine is famous for more unique traditions and techniques than any other – outside Asia. But Spaghetti All’ Assassina is based on a shaky strategy: Intentionally burning the pasta. I DO believe the experts, who say ‘the flavour is like nothing else’…
One reviewer’s take on this dish which I read during my researches referred to it as ‘Assassin’s Spag-hetti’. My admittedly amateur translation is ‘Assassinated Spaghetti’…
More than a roast
It’s more than just a celebrity roast of Italy’s most famous pasta export. It’s downright incineration. But those who champion this technique stand by it unquestioningly. I wanted to find out why…
What you do
The video above, featuring our old friend Chef Billy Parisi, embodies every detail you need to know to make this dish perfectly. And there are many nuances that would take thousands of words to write out in this space.
Long story short… You’re making spaghetti as if it was Risotto. First, you braise the dry/raw spaghetti in a large heavy pan with 3-4 Tbsp / 45 – 60 ml of olive oil. Then start adding a tomato broth a few ladles at a time. As the broth reduces, add more, in stages, until it’s all used up.
The trick is to let the broth reduce almost to the dry-pan point before adding more. For a few sec-onds, it will start to caramelize, turning a dark brown and developing an intense nutty favour.
“If you think the pasta is starting to burn, you’re doing it right” Parisi says.
When the spaghetti is more or less al dente, pour in the remaining broth and let it simmer until done. The sauce should reduce about 3/4 of the way, leaving a beautiful, rich-flavoured, rusty-red, clingy residue on the spaghetti.
And there you have it!
Tips and hacks
First, I recommend you NOT let the pasta actually burn. Take whatever measures you must to ensure that it ONLY caramelizes. Add more broth earlier rather than later. And stir the pan frequently so no part of the pasta mass remains in contact with the heat too long.
Use this pasta as a bed for any meat- or veggie-based dish that strikes your fancy. The pasta has more than enough flavour to dress the additions, too!
My take
I hope you enjoy Chef Billy’s video. Watch closely – he’s packed it with tips and technique demos that you’ll want to file away for use on many other dishes…
And enjoy Sapaghetti All’Assissna. Just remember my overarching rule: Caramelization is a blessing. Char is a sin!
~ Maggie J.