I came across a thought-provoking post the other day, that purported to list restaurant trends diners say are ‘on their way out’. And their departure was celebrated rather than lamented. I agreed with virtually all of them…
The list was compiled from responses to a Reddit online reader ‘poll‘. And the folks who were moved to comment in-variably expressed strong opinions. The spotlighted comments were about even-ly split between foods and ‘protocols’…
Foods
Wagyu ‘everything’
The Wagyu phenomenon was worth a mention when it first surfaced, a few years ago. But even then, this ‘holier-then-cow’ beef was in the realm of wistful dreaming for all but the fabu-lously wealthy 1 percent. Most folks were frustrated enough just dreaming about the perfect dry-aged, grass-fed rib-eye from legendary steak-houses like St. Elmo’s in Indianapolis. And the revelation that there were now Amer-ican and Australian Wagyu imitators just rendered the whole vision hazier and more inconsequential.
Lettice-wrapped ‘everything’
That was a brief hayday for the Iceberg growers. A lesser boom for the Cup and Romaine raisers. And the idea captivated millions. (See lettuce-wrapped burger, top of page.) For a while there, folks were all worked up about bunless, lettuce-wrapped burgers. but three things happened. First COVID came along. Next, food price inflation set in. And finally, diners realized that they had to eat lettuce-wrapped sandwiches with a knife and fork, to0 avoid spills and icky hands.
Garnishes on everything
When I was at culinary school, we spent a whole day on garnishes. And it was engrossing – the history, the theory and the practice. But the message, at the end of the day, was that garnishes were far less important in the present day than they were when the art and science of visual enhancement was first developed. Back in France, of course, in the 18th century. The rule: A little goes a very long way. And certainly not on everything. I still love to see a tiny violet blossom or two on a dessert. Or something herbal and edible on a featured main.
Wedge Salads
What can you say about wedge salads that hasn’t already been said – usually accompanied by a slight wince and a sigh? It was a brave initiative by avant-garde chefs who were still exploring the plausible extend of the trend that started with grilling halved or quartered Endive or Raddiccio hearts. That’s a fine way to serve smaller lettuces. Hot or cold. But it just doesn’t work for larger ones. Folks ordered wedge salads because they were trendy. But privately complained they were kind of lame. And hard to eat. The only ones who mourn the demise of the wedge were line cooks, who loved them because they were quick and easy to prepare. And all but impossible to screw up.
Protocols
Fancy food that doesn’t taste good
I’ve been subjected to this phenomenon more than once. Taken out to a glitzy, white-table cloth resto by a friend who insisted I try the brilliant young chef’s fantastic creations. yes. they looked marvelous. Some of them I personally witnessed rose as much as 8 in. / 20 cm off the plate. Much of their physical height was often accounted for by meticulously constructed garnishes. Some edible; other’s – alas – not. But in keeping with the food-forward philosophy of the times, many of the dishes lacked boldness of flavour and, specifically, needed more salt. And almost all of them were too small to satisfy.
Oversized portions
Yes. The opposite of the situation we just looked at. Too much food, often with too much and too many added flavours. The prime example of this travesty may be the multi-patty burger, stacked way too highly for consumption via conventional strategies, layered with tons of cheese and various other toppings. Sloppy, excessive; might as well serve it in a take-out box, because some of it definitely going home later. In the end, this is a wasteful, ostentatious, impractical and childish attempt to get attention.
Foods served on non-standard ‘plates’
The post that sparked this diatribe actually had photos of non-plates that restos had posted on their websites. There was nouvelle cuisine-on-a-shingle’ – minimalist mouthfuls arranged on an old vinyl LP record. A goulash served up in a miniature porcelain toilet. You get the picture. In its simplest form, it’s the 8-oz. / 225 ml cocktail served in a glass measuring cup. Just silly. Especially with a celery stick or a little paper umbrella sticking up out of it.
‘Hand-crafted’ menu items
This one should go without saying. Unless you have a kitchen full of robots, everything you serve will qualify as ‘hand crafted’. This ridiculous claim found on menus at the higher levels of the whited table cloth realm, is totally redundant. Now, when I hear that some fast food joint or diner is making their own pies or baking their own breads and buns, I perk up. That’s a good sign.
Just a sample
The forgoing are just a few of the fads and failed trends that have erupted with great fanfare over the past decade or so. Some for a second or third go-round. But they’ve all died inglorious deaths as the real food scene moved on, leaving them behind.
The truly sad aspect if all this is, some of them at least are doomed to come back around again, resurrected by some future generation of ‘brilliant young chefs’. In the meantime, I am glad to be spared the spectre of another hand-crafted, over-garnished, ‘classic’ wedge salad. (See the particularly nasty example, pictured above, left.)
~ Maggie J.