Yesterday, we looked at a representative selection of Taiwanese mains, and discussed some of their primary condiments. Not what some of us, at least, were expecting! Today we’ll look at their breads and baked goods, and analogues thereof. Again, I think some of us will be surprised – pleasantly…
Taiwanese Windsor Bakery Bread: A classic, and a legend!
You already know that the Taiwanese have incorporated a number of grains and starches in their national cookbook. From Sweet potato flour to rice flour to wheat flour, they’ve developed a pantheon of products, some of which might seem perculiar in an Asian context. But that’s Taiwan’s cosmopolitan character showing through! Just how fond are Tauiwanese of their multitudinous breads? Sara Conrad tells us in a ‘Letter From Taipei’:
“I had no idea bakeries would be everywhere. There are small corner shop bakeries and huge chain bakeries that bake all different kinds of bread. And since bakeries are constantly baking – some even twenty four hours a day – chances are that when you go into one, something has just popped out of the oven.”
On our menu today
Butter Bread: This is an easy one, taking only about 45 minutes to make. Makes loaves or – bar far most popular – buns (see photo, top of page). The elastic dough is made from the usual flour, sugar, salt, water, yeast eggs and lots of butter – 175 g total! Divide the dough into 60 g / 2 oz. knobs and form into round=flattish buns, Stick a finger or thumb gently into the centre of the top of each bun, because you’ll be adding even more butter later…
Milk Bread: Another Taiwanese specialty. This light, fluffy loaf (also made as buns in various shapes and sizes) is based on a mixture of flour and milk called Tanzhong. It’s the secret behind a lot of the almost-magically light and soft breads that have come out of Asian and Taiwan in particular!
The dough contains both heavy cream and milk, and uses both bread and pastry flour. Note that, unlike most bread recipes, you don’t activate or ‘bloom’ the yeast before adding it to the dough mixture. Takes 3 hours to mix and proof.
Soft Bread: Everybody’s favourite. A standard western-style loaf, but not the stuff westerners call Sliced White Bread. Surprisingly, this recipe calls for plain all-purpose flour, not bread flour, for best results. Like our beloved western Soft White Dinner Rolls, it uses milk and milk powder, eggs and butter. You can make little Dinner Rolls from the dough if you like. It bakes low and slow (45 min. at 325 F).
Windsor Bread: The long, airy loaves made by the Windsor Bakery in Taipei look a little like French baguettes and a little like extra-long hot dog buns. But they’re unlike either once you get inside them. They’re actually a social media legend, and everybody who can’t get them from the Windsor wants to know how to make them. All it takes is bread flour, yeast, milk, sugar, butter and an egg yolk. But the prep is somewhat time consuming and picky, so allow three hours per batch, from start to hot-from-the-oven service.
Pineapple Buns: First of all, they contain no pineapple. But they are shaped a little like small ones and crisscrossed with diamond-patterned cuts. There are a few different variations, and they require a long list of ingredients: Both bread and pastry flour, milk powder, milk, eggs, butter, sugar, yeast, water.
This is another r4ecipe that relies on Tanzhong for its special light consistency. The detailed recipe explains how to assemble the nifty little critters.
Scallion Bread: Not the scallion pancakes you’ll find in street stalls all over the rest of Asia. But actual bread stuffed with scallions. This recipe also requires Tanzhong and, as a result, is another light, fluffy loaf. It’s also elastic and chewy inside. But the dough is rolled out flat, sprinkled with scallion mixture, and rolled up sideways into ropes. Then, it’s braided from three ropes of dough like a Jewish Challah loaf. (You can also make fist-sized buns.) Any leftover scallion mixture can be spread on top before a final coat of egg glaze. This one requires a whole afternoon – over 4 hours from start to finish. So plan ahead and plan to make a double batch!
Scallion Shaobing: Another popular Taiwanese street food. Flatbread stuffed with scallions and topped liberally with sesame seeds. The filling consists of scallions, lard, chicken base, salt and pepper. Lots of pepper.
The dough is classed as a sponge, but not like the stuff you make Jelly Rolls with. This one takes – hold onto your hat – 10 to 12 hours to prep and bake. So, again, make lots when the urge takes you and the time is available.
So… Now you know that Taiwan isn’t a bread desert!
I urge you to learn the Tanzhong method of bread baking and try all the above recipes! The Taiwanese approach to baking produces some of the best breads in the world!
~ Maggie J.