There’s a butter shortage in France and it threatens to change not only the way the French cook, but also the very nature of classic French cuisine. The French – and many of us in other countries – will feel the effects in a number of ways, not the least of which is a kick in the pocket book…
An increasingly common sight: Butter shelves in France are chronically empty,
due to unfortunate planning by dairy farmers who got government
advice to ramp up milk production too late this year.
There’s a shortage and it’s not a simple thing to deal with… Milk production is France is down, there’s an overall increase in the demand for Butter (in light of recent scientific and health research that has absolved Butter of its formerly unhealthy reputation). And the result is, prices are rising for Butter and for products in which it is used.
Butter prices in France have, in fact, doubled in the past year and folks who use a lot of it – like bakers, especially those who work in Puff Pastry for Croissantes and other delights – are hard pressed.
The President of France’s Federation of Dairy Cooperatives, Dominique Chargé, told Reuter’s, “The problem is that on the French market the right signal was not given to dairy farmers, since prices were not adjusted in relation to the drop in dairy supply.”
If you can’t get Butter…
… You have to come up with an alternative. For frying, and other processes, you can substitute Olive Oil or another healthy Oil. Bakers have to go to Margarine or Vegetable Shortening. But that is tantamount to a sin in France. It would change the flavour and character of classic French Dishes. And that would change the entire complexion of French cuisine. Take away Olive Oil from the Italians? Never! Ghee from the Indians? Never! But desperate times in France may necessitate desperate measures.
What’s worse, the ‘Butter Season’ is coming…
The year end Christmas and New Year’s holidays are also a high-consumption time for Butter on France. Many Holiday specialties literally drip with the stuff, and bakers say they’ll have no choice but to pass on price hikes to their customers – right at the worst time.
And that’s not all…
Most of us in the Restaurant and Catering businesses don’t make our own Puff Pastry or roll our own Criossantes. We get ’em from the pros, importing the best in the world from France and Belgium. And I shudder to think what it will cost me for my next order of Croissantes and Pains au Chocolat. But I and others in my position around the world will persevere. And our fans will get their flaky, crumbly, buttery treats. You have our word on that!
But there is hope…
Milk supplies are reported to be creeping up as farmers mount a delayed response to the increased demand. But everyone is still waiting to see how hard the shortages will hit over the Holidays…
~ Maggie J.